By Monika
Road F35 (Kjölur route) – Epic Drive Through the Icelandic Highlands.
Is your adventurous spirit calling you? Are you ready to explore Iceland’s remote areas and hike through some fascinating landscapes?
It sounds like you need a trip to the Highlands! It’s an uninhabited interior region of Iceland, only accessible during the summer months by driving on F-roads.
Road F35 is one of the easiest F-roads to drive in the Icelandic Highlands, making it a perfect “starter F-road” for Highland beginners.
That’s how we started our travels to that amazing region of Iceland, and we loved the experience.
Read this guide to find all the information you need to have a safe journey on this incredible road!
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- Road F35 (Kjölur route) – Epic Drive Through the Icelandic Highlands.
What are F-roads?
F-roads (also spelled just as F roads) are usually rough, unpaved gravel roads crisscrossing the Icelandic Center Highlands and leading to some of the most breathtaking sites you can possibly visit.
It takes some effort drive on these roads. F stands for “Fjall” which in Icelandic means “Mountain”, as these roads are also described as mountain roads.
Like I mentioned, they are only open to tourists for self-driving from June to September.
What exactly is road F35?
Mountain road F-35, also known as Kjölur road or Kjalvegur is a 168 km long stretch of an unpaved bumpy track traversing Iceland’s Center Highlands.
On the southern end it starts near one of the Golden Circle main attractions – the famous Gullfoss waterfall, where paved rt. 35 turns into the mountain route F-35.
Gullfoss restaurant is a great place to stop before you embark on your highlands journey. You can grab a nice hot meal, some delicious coffee and of course use the restrooms! And if you haven’t done it yet in your travels, definitely go see Gullfoss Waterfall!
On the northern end it ends about 27 km away from the town of Blönduós, where you can rejoin the Ring Road.
It is one of the longest Icelandic F-roads, and the only road, beyond the Ring Road, connecting north and south Iceland.
It is also one of the highest roads in Iceland, at 672 m (about 2200 ft) above the sea level.
Here is a map of this route. I also marked the most popular stops along this amazing drive – more details on them later in the post.
Best time to drive road F35
In general, F-roads are only open to tourists in the summer months. What does that mean exactly? Well, it varies year to year and is totally dependent on the ever-changing weather conditions.
Road F35 is one of the best maintained F-roads in Iceland and usually opens as one of the first ones and will most likely be the last one to close. It usually opens anytime from June to July and closes at the end of September.
For more specific information on the status of the Kjölur route, other F-roads in the Icelandic highlands and Icelandic roads in general please check this website.
How to prepare for driving on road F35?
Driving in the Highlands of Iceland is a one-of a kind experience and I definitely recommend incorporating at least some of the easier to get to Highland destinations (like Kerlingarfjöll via road F35 or Landmannalaugar via F208 north) into your travel itinerary.
It does take just a few extra steps to make sure you are prepared and have a safe and hassle-free trip.
You’ll find a lot of important, practical information in my detailed guide to visiting the Icelandic Highlands but here are some things to consider:
Get a proper rental car
Not all F-roads are the same. They all require a 4×4 vehicle, however not all 4×4 vehicles are suitable for all F-roads.
Rent a proper car for your adventure with a 5% discount automatically applied to your reservation from a trusted local company I always rent from – Blue Car Rental!
F35 is considered an “easy F-road”. It’s one of the easiest (if not the easiest) F-roads in Iceland. What do I mean by that? First and foremost, it has no official river crossings.
Some of the F-roads have quite a few of them, of different water levels and current strength. To cross those you really need a large 4×4 SUV with good ground clearance and some river fording experience, practicing on some small rivers first.
For more information and best tips for renting the right car for your Iceland adventure, read THIS DETAILED GUIDE.
Road F35, while still bumpy, is actually quite well maintained, with a speed limit of 80 km/hr. (50 miles/hr.), going down to stricter limits in some areas.
I will say that having driven the entire length of F35, the 80 km/hr. speed limit is very generous. Unless you’re in a larger SUV and have experience driving on highland roads, most likely you will not be reaching it.
We had a 4×4 Toyota RAV4 and for the safety of the car and its tires, we stayed well below the speed limit.
Plus, you really want to take it easy and enjoy the epic views of the Kjölur plateau and the breathtaking mountains around you.
At times you can even get a peek at the glaciers in the distance, as this highland route runs between two of them: Langjökull and Hofsjökull
By calling F35 “easy” I also mean that even though it’s a mountain road, it isn’t steep (just some hills) and there are no drop offs that you’d have to worry about.
You may also want to consider getting a roadside assistance waiver with your rental car. In addition to providing help with flat tires, lost keys and the like, it will also include help in case you have trouble while driving on F-roads.
Make sure you have a full tank of gas
There are no services along the entire length of road F35, so please don’t start the drive without fueling up! Remember that the further away from Reykjavik you go, the sparser gas stations become.
The last gas station on the southern end of F-35 is a self-service N1 pump in front of the Geysir Center. On the northern end you have a choice of N1 or OB in Blönduós.
Helpful tip: self-service gas stations often require a credit/debit card with a pin. Also, a “fill up” option is usually not available at these stations, and you have to select an amount you’d like to charge (not the volume of gas), which makes the process a bit tricky.
To learn more about gas stations in Iceland and how to fill up your gas tank, read my First Trip to Iceland Travel Tips guide.
Make sure you have cellular or Wi-Fi connection
Cell phone connection is great in most of the country; however it can be spotty at best in remote areas like the Highlands. I strongly recommend reserving a portable wi-fi box with your rental car. It’s helpful with finding directions and sharing those awesome photos from your trip, but in the middle of Icelandic nowhere it can also be a life saver!
I also recommend a paper map as a backup in case of an unexpected electronics failure. You do not want to find yourself unable to find your way in the Highlands.
This Iceland Adventure and Travel Map is what I use. In addition to being a phenomenal back-up plan for navigating your road trip through Iceland, also shows locations of gas stations! It was an incredible resource during our Ring Road and Highlands travels.
Food and drink
Stock up on snacks and drinks for the road. Like I mentioned earlier, there are no services along road F35!
You can grab a hot meal at the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort (renamed the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll after the 2023 renovations) and at the Hveravellir Lodge (keep reading to learn more about these stops along the Kjölur route), but you should pack everything else.
Check my packing list for simple, budget friendly items that will help you easily prepare food and drinks on the road!
Facilities
The only restrooms available along this highland route are located in the resorts mentioned in the previous section: Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir.
Leave no trace! Have a dedicated trash bag/container in the car and you can dispose of it at Kerlingarfjöll or Hveravellir. Keep the Highlands (and the rest of Iceland, too!) clean and unspoiled – after all, isn’t that why we love it?
Check the weather and road conditions before you travel
This is a very important step – check the websites below (NOT a built-in phone weather app, as those are wildly inaccurate in Iceland!) for the updated weather forecast and roads status a couple of days before and the day of your trip.
Helpful websites:
– en.vedur.is – your most reliable source for the up-to-date weather forecast.
– road.is – your source for road conditions and road closures
– safetravel.is – lists road conditions, safety alerts and also allows you to check in with your location (which is particularly helpful if you travel solo) in cash you need to contact emergency services.
BE FLEXIBLE! Have a plan B in case the weather hinders your Highlands plans. Never ignore weather warnings in Iceland – they are posted to keep you safe!
👉 Don’t forget TRAVEL INSURANCE! I don’t travel without it. Get a quote from my personal #1 choice – Travel Guard – or check more options here!
Pack properly
Pack clothing for 4 seasons that you can layer! Icelandic weather changes quickly but here, in the Highlands it is even more finicky.
Not sure what to bring? Check out my no-nonsense budget friendly packing list to find out what you’ll REALLY need in Iceland.
Don’t go off-road!
And last but not least – as tempting as it may be to go off road and test out those volcanic plains on either side of F-35, please don’t! Off-roading is illegal in Iceland and can also be dangerous, both for you and the environment.
For more information about driving in Iceland CLICK HERE!
Can you drive the length of F-35 in one day?
Yes, you can, we did it, however it’s A LOT.
Google Maps will tell you that the drive time for the entire length of Kjölur route is 3.5 hours. Please don’t believe it! That’s assuming that you’ll maintain the allowed highway speed limit through your drive, which most likely you will not.
It also depends on the number of stops you’ll take on the way and your plan for the day. A more realistic estimate would fall somewhere between 5-6 hours. Just driving on this mountain track is an experience in itself, and the surreal landscapes it takes you through make this route a magnificent drive, so you definitely do not want to rush.
Think about it – you’re in a remote part of Iceland, driving between the glaciers! It’s worth spending he time to take it all in…
What are the best stops along road F35?
There are some amazing scenic stops that are worth exploring during your drive on the Kjölur route.
Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base
It is the most popular stop on this route, best known for its natural hot springs and the breathtaking geothermal area of Hveradalir.
Kerlingarfjöll is located about 1.5 hours from Gullfoss (south end of F35) and about 2.5 hours from Blönduós (north end of F35), so about halfway along the route.
You have to take a turn to another F-road, rt. F347 for the last 10 km. to get to the Highland Base.
From there it’s another 12 minutes to drive on rt. F-347 to Hvaradalir Geothermal Area parking lot.
Read my full Kerlingarfjöll guide for more information, photos, and videos, including the drive to Hveradalir Geothermal Area (one of the most beautiful places – if not THE most beautiful place I’ve seen in Iceland).
Hveravellir
It is a nature reserve with its own geothermal area and hiking trails around it. And of course, a natural hot spring for you to soak in as well.
Hveravellir is located about an hour away (40 km) from the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll (formerly known as Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort), on your way if you’re heading north.
Take a turn from F35 to route F735 and drive for 2 km.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have a lot of time to spend there, so we just peeked at the hot spring and took a quick walk around the area. Hveravellir is definitely worth a longer stop!
Caution! There is Hveradalir – which is the alluring geothermal area near Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir – the nature reserve I just mentioned. The names are similar and it’s very easy to confuse them! There is also Hverir – another amazing geothermal area located in North Iceland – to add more confusion!
Hvítárvatn glacier lake
This is the stop we didn’t make – somehow we drove right past it…
But after doing some more research I now know that this glacier lake is located near Langjökull glacier, less than an hour from the start of the Kjölur route at Gullfoss. There is a small pull off area to admire the views and a rough dirt track that leads to the lake’s shoreline. So be on the lookout!
You can make either of the stops listed above a day trip, or you can visit, hike, and then continue driving like we did.
You can also spend the night along F-35. Both Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir offer accommodations at campsites or mountain huts (more on that below)
Our experience driving road F35
We drove the entire length of road F35 in August, starting our Highlands adventure at Gullfoss, with the plan to stop at the Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base and visit Hveradalir Geothermal Area.
The beginning of the road just past Gullfoss is paved, but quickly changes to rough gravel. Take your time, especially if you’re in a smaller SUV like we were. It’s absolutely doable but you want to drive carefully.
You definitely want to make sure you have a proper car for this trip.
My biggest concerns were randomly scattered larger loose rocks, as some of them looked sharp and we did not want a flat tire in the middle of nowhere! Otherwise, the majority of the route was a fairly easy drive – much better than we expected.
This was our first experience driving F-roads and overall, it was easier than we thought. Just pretty bumpy. We started early in the morning and there weren’t many cars out there, we pretty much had the road to ourselves.
When there was a car approaching or sometimes passing you, the only thing you had to worry a bit was the dust, as it was the peak summer season and the road was very dry.
There were times we deliberately stopped and waited for it to settle before continuing.
Our car was so dusty at the end of this trek that the following day people were drawing patterns on it while we visited the Diamond Circle!
We left all the art on the car till the rain washed if off!
The views along the route are incredible, changing from almost lunar landscapes to mountains and glaciers in the distance.
Occasionally you cross a river or a stream via a single lane bridge.
We were very lucky to have a nice clear day for the drive and we really enjoyed it.
Kerlingarfjöll is located at about a halfway point and informally divides F35 into a southern part (Gullfoss to Kerlingarfjöll turn) and a northern part (Kerlingarfjöll to Blönduós)
After spending a few hours there, we drove on, stopping again at Hveravellir .
Read my 10-day Itinerary to find out how that was planned and why we ended up driving the entire road F35 in one day!
It took us about an hour to get to Hvaravelir. There is a shallow “puddle crossing” about 25 minutes into the drive from Kerlingarfjöll – we just took it on the side, it was no problem. Like I mentioned, Hveravellir was a quick stop for us and we continued driving north on F35.
It was early evening by now. After a short stretch of the same bumpy gravel that we already got used to, all of a sudden the drive became easier and smoother! It is definitely a better surface than the southern part – more packed and without all those loose rocks, so you can actually get some speed there!
Contrary to what I read before our trip, this “northern” part of F-35 was a much nicer drive as far the road surface.
We faced a different challenge though – it got foggy. So foggy that at times it was hard to see the road in front of us, so we had to slow down a bit, especially driving by lakes, which you pass quite a few of on that stretch.
Also, the area was getting greener and that meant sheep. So many of them, mostly grazing on the sides, but some of them were right on the road and not willing to move!
As I mentioned in my bio, I LOVE Icelandic sheep, their sass and independence, just roaming free everywhere! That sass can be a problem though, when they just won’t move from the road! If you approach slowly in your car, they do eventually let you pass, you may just have to wait a bit. We had some laughs about it 🙂
Watch this short video of our encounter with sheep on route F35!
Eventually we drove out of the fog and reached the end of road F35 near Blönduós.
Our final stop for the day was Akureyri, which we reached late that night. We didn’t originally plan to do all that driving in one day, but due to flight cancellations (full story HERE) that’s what we ended up doing.
It was A LOT but a great experience. I absolutely recommend starting your F-roads experience in Iceland on road F35. It is an adventure you don’t want to miss out on, and you get to see some pretty amazing things on the way!
Videos of our drive:
Here are videos of our experience driving road F35 to give you a preview before your trip!
Places to stay along road F35
Hveravellir – you have a choice of the Old Hut with dorm style rooms and the New Hut with private rooms or a campsite. It also has a restaurant.
The Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll – the newly renovated Highland Base offers private rooms in the lodge, dorm style rooms, huts, cabins and a campsite, with access to bathrooms, shower, kitchen and a dining area.
🛜 Stay connected during your trip with an eSIM like Airalo, Saily or Sim Local!
FAQ:
Ideally, you want to leave yourself more time than the 1 day we ended up with, due to our unfortunate flight complications (read more here). I’d recommend driving the “southern” part from Gullfoss to the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll spend the day hiking there and stay overnight. Then drive the “northern” part towards Blönduós and Akureyri, stopping in Hveravellir Hot Spring Area on your way to take a scenic break. Allow 2 days – or more if you’d like to hike more trails at Kerlingarfjöll.
No, there are no river crossings on the Kjölur route. It may however get muddy with puddles after heavy rainfall or at the beginning of the summer season so always check road conditions before you embark on any Highlands adventure.
For us it was much easier than we expected. Just quite bumpy at times, but I wouldn’t call it difficult. If you’ve never driven in the Highlands, this is a great road to start!
To drive road F35 you have to plan your trip to Iceland in the summer. Self-driving any F-roads is not possible in other seasons.
Absolutely! The landscapes are amazing and the stops along the way are worth every effort to get there. In my opinion driving road F35 through the heart of Iceland is a not -to-miss experience.
Loved F35? To explore more Highlands, go to Landmannalaugar next!
Let me help you plan your trip!
Get organized with this printable, fillable 45-page ICELAND TRAVEL PLANNER – keep track of flights, hotels, tours, daily itineraries and even your trip budget!
BONUS! The planner has journal pages for your memories!
You may also like:
- 6-day Iceland Itinerary (How to See the Best of Iceland in a Short Time)
- Golden Circle in One Day – Full Guide to the Main Stops and Best Detours.
- Snæfellsnes Peninsula – A Complete Guide and Top Things to See.
- Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool – All You Need to Know and Why You Should Visit.
- Reykjadalur Valley – a Beautiful Hike to a Hot River (+ Tips for the Best Experience)
- 8 Best Things to do Around Lake Mývatn – a Complete Travel Guide.
- Stuðlagil Canyon Guide: Tips for Hiking and Best Viewpoints.
- Fjaðrárgljúfur – How to Visit Iceland’s Fairytale Canyon.
For more Iceland inspiration and travel guides click HERE.
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🎙️ Prefer to listen to the travel guides instead? Check out my Explore Iceland Travel Podcast and easily plan your trip on the go!
About Monika
An avid traveler and a passionate trip planner, mildly obsessed with being organized and prepared 🙂
Well aware of how precious travel time is, I’m here to share my experience and help you get the most out of your vacation time.
“Taking the hassle out of trip planning”
